Reinforcing steel comes in bars which are normally tied together to form a cage. The bars come in different grades or strengths and can be smooth or deformed (with small ridges). Sometimes the reinforcing is in a ready-made mesh which comes in standard sized sheets or rolls.
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Reinforcing gives concrete structures their strength and also prevents shrinkage cracking. Engineers design the reinforcing that goes in the structure. It’s important that the reinforcing is placed in the positions indicated on the reinforcing drawings, and that where the reinforcing (or mesh) joins it overlaps with the next bars. It’s obvious that the right size bars (or mesh), of the right grade and deformations is used, otherwise the structure could fail.

Reinforced concrete is usually used in foundations and concrete slabs in houses, for 2nd floor slabs and balconies, and for concrete roofs.

​Reinforcing should not be too close to the bottom, sides or top surface of the concrete. Usually the reinforcing is designed to have a minimum cover (distance from the outside edge of the concrete) which could be 25, 30, 40, 50 millimetres (one to two inches). The cover often depends on the structure and the conditions the concrete will be exposed to. Harsh conditions near water, and especially sea water will require a bigger distance from the edge of the concrete so that the reinforcing is better protected. Reinforcing that’s too close to the edge of the concrete could mean that the concrete can’t get around and under the steel bars so the bars could be left exposed, which means that the reinforcing will corrode and also that it won’t do its job. Water also penetrates the first layers of concrete and steel close to the surface will rust. Rusted reinforcing expands, which then breaks the concrete around the steel. This is unsightly and weakens the structure. Rusting reinforcing also leaves ugly rust marks on exposed concrete.

Unfortunately, sometimes reinforcing isn’t adequately supported and when the concrete is poured workers walk on the reinforcing squashing it deeper into the concrete and below where it should be. Reinforcing which isn’t where it should be in the concrete can result in a weakened structure and cracking on the surface. Always ensure mesh reinforcing layers are fixed correctly so that they stay in the right position, even after the concrete is poured.
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For reinforcing to be effective it should be clean, not contaminated with grease and oils and relatively free of rust so that the concrete sticks to it. When reinforcing is delivered to the site it should never be stacked immediately on the ground, but should rather be raised off the ground on timber poles. Reinforcing should be used as soon as possible after it’s delivered, certainly within a few weeks.

Generally an engineer should inspect structures before concrete is poured to ensure that the correct reinforcing has been used and it’s fixed in the correct place.
​
Sometimes engineers replace steel reinforcing bars with fibres, which could be steel or synthetic. The fibres are mixed into the concrete during the mixing stage.

In the last article we discussed some aspects of designing stairs for your new home. Designing stairs in your new home
​In this article I discuss stair design further.
When designing staircases or flights of steps it’s important to consider the following:

• The stairs must be well lit. Dark areas and shadows are dangerous and could lead to falls.
• The difference in elevation from the top floor to the lower floor.
• The regulations – which usually specify minimum widths, the height and depth of each step and the handrail requirements.
• Ideal dimensions are:
  • The width of the staircase should not be less than 900 millimetres (3 feet) (preferably wider – 1200 to 1500 millimetres (4 to 5 feet)).
  • The height of each step (riser) should be between 115 millimetres and 190 millimetres (4.5 to 7.5 inches).
  • The depth of each stair tread (going) should be between 240 mm and 350 mm (9.5 to 14 inches).
• The layout of the house. What’s the desired starting point for the stairs and the desired end point. You probably don’t want stairs ending inside a bedroom!
• Stair treads must be non-slip.
• Preferably the edge of the stair should be visibly different, so the demarcation between different stairs is clearly visible.
• There shouldn’t be any trip hazards at the top or bottom of the steps, so the finish on the stairs should merge seamlessly into the surrounding floor levels.
• The size of the risers (height of each step) must be a constant height - measured from finished top surface to finished top surface. The depth of each tread or step must be a constant size. To obtain the required number of steps divide the difference in elevation from the top to the lower floor (measuring from finished floor levels including the thickness of tiles, carpets, timber, etc) by a number between 115 mm and 190 mm (the desired range of step heights). Obviously the number of steps must be a whole number. Using the closest whole number of steps it’s then possible to work out the required height of each stair which must be in the range above (divide the nearest whole number of stairs into the height from bottom floor to top floor to get the height of each step). Regrettably many designers forget to take into account the thickness of the carpets, tiles or timber covering the steps and the lower and upper floors. Frequently we see evidence of this when the first step is shorter or higher than the other steps, or the top step is shorter or higher than the other steps. Not only is this unsightly but it can lead to people tripping and falling.
• They should have a handrail on at least one side.
• There should be a balustrade or wall to prevent anyone (especially small children) falling off the side of the stairs.
• Doors opening onto the stairs, or at the top of the stairs, shouldn’t open in such a way that the door could hit a person walking up or down the stairs, thus causing them to fall.
• It’s important when designing and constructing the stairs to know what the floor finish will be on the steps as well as on the lower and upper floors. If the stairs haven’t been designed to take account of these finished levels you could find that the bottom and top stair heights are different to the rest of the step heights.
• Your budget. Curved staircases are usually more expensive, as are some floor finishes, materials and balustrades.
• The finish to the stairs should be reasonably tough and hard wearing as stairs usually take more traffic than the rest of the floors and you also don’t want the edges of the stairs to become chipped and bashed.

Landings (which are flat areas part way up the flight of stairs) allow space for stairs to turn sharp corners and also provide a rest break for people walking up the stairs.

It’s important to remember that stairs are often the only way to move furniture up and down to other levels. Stairs that are narrow, steep, or that have sharp corners can make moving furniture difficult.
​
Staircases should be designed by an engineer when they are only supported at the bottom and the top.

It's important to get the design, position and construction of the steps in your house right. Poorly designed or constructed steps can be a hazard, a nuisance, and even detract from your home. While steps positioned in the right place, designed well and built correctly can add value to your new home.

​This article is adapted from information in the book 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Part 2: Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home' by Paul Netscher.
​
Paul Netscher has written 2 easy to read books 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses - Volumes 1 and 2'. An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Volume 1 deals with Hiring Contractors, Managing Construction and Finishing Your Home.  and Designing your ideal home Volume 2 deals with Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home. 
​("Great for those that DIY. Very helpful in home renovations!" said a Reader on Amazon.com 5*****)
These books are available from Amazon and other online bookstores in paper and ebook.
© 2020 This article is not to be reproduced for commercial purposes without written permission from the author.

Some homes have more than one level. Depending on the height difference the different levels are connected by steps. There could be only one or two steps for small level differences, or they could be a flight of stairs going from a ground floor to a second, and even a third floor. Some homes have grand staircases which create a statement and add to the feeling of opulence of the home. Stairs take up space and so are often squeezed into awkward spaces. Regularly steps are poorly designed and they are hazardous, or at best inconvenient. Every year countless people are seriously injured falling down (and even up) stairs. None of us would like to see a family member injured, but equally important is to ensure the safety of visitors. Poorly designed stairs can make the house less saleable.

Stairs should be designed and placed so that they’re an attractive feature, while being practical and safe.

Flights of stairs connecting one floor to another could be in a straight line, they could turn through a right angle part way up, they could turn back on themselves, they can gently curve, or they may form a tight spiral. Ladders are often used to access storage attics.

Steps can be solid and in some cases it’s possible to fit small rooms or toilets under the staircases which means that space isn’t wasted. Alternatively the staircases can be ‘floating’ over the room.

Stairs can be constructed from concrete, timber, steel, glass and aluminium. The stair treads can be covered with carpets, tiles or timber, or the treads can be glass or punched metal.
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Sometimes stairs are useful to allow external light to penetrate to a lower level. This could be from a skylight over the stairs, or from windows on the stairs.

In general, stairs shouldn’t be located in the middle of the room where they not only disrupt the layout of the room, but they could create an unexpected trip hazard.

Stairs are a problem for the elderly and those with mobility problems. Consideration may have to be given to constructing your home on one level. Where it’s necessary to have one or two steps going to a lower level consider replacing these with a ramp, although a ramp requires more space. When budgets and space allow, it’s possible to include a lift or elevator for moving from the ground level to upper floors. Note that even with a lift, stairs are still required as an alternate access in an emergency. Alternatively consider designing your staircase so that it’s wide enough and with suitable balustrades so that a chair lift can be added now or in the future.

In the next article we will discuss what you should consider when designing stairs.
Read Ensure the steps in your house are not a hazard or a nuisance

​This article is adapted from information in the book 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Part 2: Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home' by Paul Netscher.
​
Paul Netscher has written 2 easy to read books 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses - Volumes 1 and 2'. An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Volume 1 deals with Hiring Contractors, Managing Construction and Finishing Your Home.  and Designing your ideal home Volume 2 deals with Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home. 
​("Great for those that DIY. Very helpful in home renovations!" said a Reader on Amazon.com 5*****)

Contractors were renovating this house and doing work in the basement when the house collapsed and brought down the neighbouring house as well. Read more

Don't bring your house down when renovating and remodelling. For more info read:  Before removing walls or adding new windows and doors check your house will not fall down and Before removing an internal wall for your house renovation consider this

Two weeks ago we discussed The Benefits of Green Building - Environmentally Sustainable Buildings 
​Last week we discussed How to make your home green and environmentally friendly and save money

But you should also consider other ways to make your home more environmentally friendly, which include:

• Limiting the impact of the building on environmentally sensitive areas. For instance you shouldn’t be draining wetlands, or constructing in sensitive dune areas. You should wherever possible keep the existing trees and vegetation. Sensible site selection and sensitive positioning of the house on the property can make a difference to the impact your house has on the natural surroundings.
• Using materials which have a low energy input and come from sustainable resources.
• Not incorporating materials which have caused undue damage to the environment, or impacted the health and well-being of those who have worked with the materials, or who have lived in the vicinity of where the materials were produced.
• Making use of recycled materials where possible.
• Using materials which can be easily recycled.
• Using materials that won’t be harmful to people when the house reaches the end of its life and gets demolished.
• Considering the life-cycle of appliances. Install those which are reliable and can easily be repaired if necessary. Replacing appliances is expensive and it requires more resources from the environment.
• Allowing place in the garden to grow herbs and vegetables.
• Providing a place for a compost bin for kitchen waste and garden cuttings.

A green building starts with the materials and equipment incorporated in the building. Where did the products come from – was the environment harmed? How was the product made – were harmful products discharged into the air, rivers or the ocean? Were people adversely impacted by the product’s harvesting and mining? Unfortunately many products which are touted as being green aren’t, and their continued use actually does more harm to the environment. We should all be sensitive to the environmental impact of our house. People are becoming more sensitive to environmental issues and governments are being forced to take a tougher stand on products and processes which aren’t sustainable or harm the environment. ​

Legislation often stipulates products and processes which must be incorporated into new houses. There are ratings which classify how green or environmentally friendly buildings are, and ratings that categorise the energy efficiency of a building. Often legislation specifies the minimum rating required.

Of course designing a product that fits with the environment it’s situated in can also be categorised as being environmentally friendly. Monstrous buildings that clash with their surroundings, or stick out like the proverbial sore thumb, are blights on the landscape.

​This article is adapted from information in the book 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Part 2: Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home' by Paul Netscher.
​
Paul Netscher has written 2 easy to read books 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses - Volumes 1 and 2'. An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Volume 1 deals with Hiring Contractors, Managing Construction and Finishing Your Home.  and Designing your ideal home Volume 2 deals with Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home. 
​("Great for those that DIY. Very helpful in home renovations!" said a Reader on Amazon.com 5*****)
These books are available from Amazon and other online bookstores in paper and ebook.
© 2020 This article is not to be reproduced for commercial purposes without written permission from the author.

In a previous article we discussed The Benefits of Green Building - Environmentally Sustainable Buildings

Making a building environmentally friendly and more sustainable doesn’t have to cost lots of money. The cost of incorporating green solutions has come down markedly in the last few years as more people use these solutions. In fact, some of the suggestions below add no extra costs to construction. Many items are simply about making sensible informed decisions. 

 In my next article I will discuss other ways you can make your home building and renovation project environmentally friendly. See More ways to make your home environmentally friendly

This article is adapted from information in the book 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Part 2: Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home' by Paul Netscher.
​
Paul Netscher has written 2 easy to read books 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses - Volumes 1 and 2'. An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Volume 1 deals with Hiring Contractors, Managing Construction and Finishing Your Home.  and Designing your ideal home Volume 2 deals with Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home. 
​("Great for those that DIY. Very helpful in home renovations!" said a Reader on Amazon.com 5*****)
These books are available from Amazon and other online bookstores in paper and ebook.
© 2020 This article is not to be reproduced for commercial purposes without written permission from the author.

Green buildings are buildings which are energy efficient to run, are water efficient minimising the use of water, make use of sustainable construction materials, have a light footprint on the environment, create a healthier home and which minimise waste, both during construction and in the operation of the home.
​
Benefits of green buildings are:

• The building is often more pleasant to live in because it’s for example cooler in summer and warmer in winter, or it’s more inclusive of the natural surroundings.
• The building is cheaper to live in since it uses less energy, gas and water.
• They often incorporate materials which are less harmful to those living in the building.
• More people are choosing to buy, or live in buildings that incorporate environmentally sustainable products and that leave a smaller environmental footprint. Your house will be more saleable.

Making a building environmentally friendly and more sustainable doesn’t have to cost lots of money. 
Next week I'll discuss how you can make your home more environmentally sustainable. Read  How to make your home green and environmentally friendly and save moneyand More ways to make your home environmentally friendly

Sewer pipes (wastewater pipes) from your house usually have to be connected to the town system. If there’s no town system, then depending on the regulations, as well as the geology of your property, you may have to construct a sewer storage tank which has to be regularly pumped into a truck. Alternatively it could flow into a septic tank and French drain system. If your house is located in a clayey area, or on rock, then a septic tank and French drain won’t work. Always consult experts if there’s no town sewage system to connect your new house to.
​
Sewer pipes can’t flow uphill unless you install a pumping system which is expensive. Sewer pipes feed from the drains in your home's bathrooms and kitchen to the local town system outside your property. Normally sewer pipes should fall at a constant rate of no less than one in sixty (check your local regulations) which means that for every sixty metres (sixty yards) of pipe the lower end must be at least one metre (three foot) below the higher end. This does depend on the type of pipe and building regulations. When there’s insufficient fall the solid material won’t flow down the pipe and results in a blockage.

​Sewer pipes also need to be a minimum level below the ground level so they can’t easily be damaged (they could be squashed or broken by vehicles driving over them, or pierced by gardening tools). Obviously sewer pipes shouldn’t be above ground level where they are unsightly, can be damaged and create an obstruction. The location of bathrooms in houses on large properties, or ones where the location of the town sewer is at the higher end of the property could be dictated by their distance from the town system and the depth of the town sewer pipes relative to the floor level of the bathroom. Pipes near the surface will need protection so they aren’t broken.

Often sewer pipes are deep and are below the other utility lines, so it’s always best to install the sewer lines before the other pipes and cables are installed, and probably at an early stage of construction. Sewer pipes are often installed under floor slabs and are one of the first items to be connected. Always ensure that the open ends of all pipes are adequately protected to prevent sand, concrete and rubbish entering the pipe. 

For more on plumbing and home construction and renovations read this article: Staging plumbing and electrical when building and renovating houses
​And this article:
Understanding plumbing when planning a new home or renovation.

​The interior of an existing home can be altered by removing walls between rooms. This can make the home more open-plan, it can let more natural light into areas which were previously dark, it can make the home more modern, it can make spaces more usable, it may eliminate passages and incorporate the space into enlarged living areas, indeed removing internal walls has many advantages and can radically alter homes, making them feel more spacious, light filled, modern, and more liveable.

But before starting your home renovation project and getting a hammer out and smashing down some interior walls there are some important points you should consider to avoid unnecessary costs and surprises and to ensure there are no accidents.

It seems so simple – cut out an existing wall to make a room larger, or to create open plan living areas, but usually timber and tile floors have been laid around the existing wall. Moving the wall exposes a bare piece of floor. Patching the timber or tile often results in colour differences (assuming the product is still available).
Case study: in our house we undertook renovations in the main bedroom. This involved moving a few walls slightly and the timber floor had to be patched in a couple of places. Firstly we had to find the exact same timber for the patches. Then the complete bedroom floor had to be sanded and sealed. But the timber floor continued from the bedroom out the door through the whole upper level floor. The newly sanded and treated floor was always going to have a different colour from the original floor which had aged in the sun and with use. We eventually had to sand and seal all the existing timber floor upstairs to achieve a uniform coloured floor – about one hundred square metres (a thousand square feet) because one square metre (ten square feet) had to be patched!

There are other issues you should consider which could add to your costs. These include:

• Is the wall load bearing, supporting the structure (roof or 2nd floor) above? (See my article last week: Before removing walls or adding new windows and doors check your house will not fall down )
• Are there pipes or electrical wiring in the wall which have to be accommodated elsewhere? These need to be isolated, made safe and then relocated as necessary.
• Will the floor levels on the two sides of the wall be the same? If the floors have been constructed separately it’s feasible that they aren’t perfectly level and even though they are the same level at a connecting doorway they might be different elsewhere. Even a level variance of five millimetres (a fifth of an inch) can be a problem when you try join the floors after the wall is gone.
• Will the ceilings be at the same height between the adjoining rooms? Ceilings may not be exactly level across the room and you may find that the ceilings don’t perfectly line-up. Even a five millimetre difference (fifth of an inch) may result in you having to redo the ceiling in one of the rooms.
• Will the floor finishes match? Replacing carpets may be simple, but tiles involve more work. Even when the floor tiles match at a connecting door between the rooms they may not match further along when the wall is removed. It’s possible that the tile pattern in one room isn’t perfectly square, or the joints between tiles are fractionally larger. This may result in tile patterns mismatching further from the door when the wall is removed.
• Will the walls at right angles to the wall that’s removed line-up between the adjoining rooms? Sometimes one wall could be slightly out of square or a few millimetres thicker, which could mean that once the wall is removed the adjoining walls don’t join perfectly flat. You can manage this transition by including a small nib where the wall you removed joined the other walls.
• Usually lights have to be changed so they are controlled by one common switch. Lights mounted in the ceiling may have to be relocated so they are placed evenly and symmetrically across the enlarged room. This may entail minor repairs to the ceiling.
• Ducted air-conditioning may have to be modified so there is one control for the room. The ducts feeding the two rooms could have to be combined to take account of the new enlarged room.

There are definite benefits to removing, or even just moving internal walls. However, you don't want to have an unpleasant surprise when the costs go over your renovation budget. Careful planning will ensure that you don't cause unnecessary damage to your home, have accidents during the renovation, that you make appropriate choices to limit additional costs, and that you include all the extra costs into your budget. Some of these costs could include making good ceilings, moving electrical switches, changing light positions, redoing the floor to match, repainting the rooms and more.

​Being prepared will make your home renovation a success. 

​Paul Netscher has written 2 easy to read books 'An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses - Volumes 1 and 2'. An Introduction to Building and Renovating Houses Volume 1 deals with Hiring Contractors, Managing Construction and Finishing Your Home.  and Designing your ideal home Volume 2 deals with Finding Your Ideal Property and Designing Your Dream Home. 
​("Great for those that DIY. Very helpful in home renovations!" said a Reader on Amazon.com 5*****)
These books are available from Amazon and other online bookstores in paper and ebook.
© 2020 This article is not to be reproduced for commercial purposes without written permission from the author.

​People planning to renovate their homes often want to chop out internal walls to change the size of rooms and the configuration and layout of the house. Unfortunately, some of these walls may be holding up the roof or the floor above, so removing them can cause the roof or upper floor to sag, or worse even collapse. In some cases it’s possible to put in extra permanent supporting structures for the roof or upper floor, but these should be designed by and engineer and installed before demolition work starts.

Even cutting additional doors and windows, or enlarging the existing windows can weaken load bearing walls. Additional beams may have to be installed to transfer the loads over the openings. The remaining portion of the walls must be checked to ensure that they’re able to carry the additional loads from above.

All buildings are supported by some form of foundation. The detail of the foundation will depend on the ground on which the structure is built, as well as the load that the foundation must carry. If the building is on rock the foundations may be light, while buildings on weak ground will have more substantial foundations, even including reinforcing steel. It may appear easy to demolish an internal wall and rebuild it a few centimetres (inches) away, but if the new wall isn’t constructed on a foundation and only on the existing concrete slab there’ll be problems if the concrete slab has insufficient strength to support the new wall. The concrete slab could crack and the wall settle and crack. This is unsightly and can be dangerous. 

Sometimes foundations aren’t only there to support the structure but they also must hold the house down. For instance, houses made of lightweight materials in an area prone to hurricanes, tornadoes and cyclones need be firmly anchored to the ground.

Get an engineer or an expert builder to check your existing foundations and roof before removing walls, knocking holes in existing walls for additional doors and windows, or before building new walls on top of existing floors. Always take care that you are not weakening the existing structure of your house. This could be dangerous and result in additional costs to repair parts of the house that are damaged when the existing structure is weakened and moves.

See what happened to this house when contractors were working in the basement. The whole house collapsed bringing the neighbours house down as well.